How To: Getting Started
with an MR-02
|
 |
 |
For our latest installment of our How To series
of articles we have decided to step back and embrace
our newer and potential racing friends. Now that
we are racing in Houston, we come accross more
beginners face-to-face than ecver before. Many
of these beginners have the same questions. What
upgrades should I buy? Which Tires should I run?
How do I mount my tires? What is MM? What is RM?
and so on...
The following How To is a little bit
long winded, but after you are done reading this
you should be a little bit better informed about
Mini-Z's and how to get them running properly
on the track.
|
|
 |
 |

|
So you just got your package in the mail from
Reflex. Inside it is your latest weapon, a Kyosho
Mini-Z MR-02. Per Reflex's suggestion you started
off with a Stage 1 Upgrade Package. The only problem
is that there really isn't any instructions. Don't
worry about it. We at Reflex, are here to teach
you how to get started the right way. |
|

|
To get your rolling chassis going, you will need
a few, very basic tools. Amongst them is a Phillips
head driver, an XACTO knife, some PN racing tire tape
and a lighter.
|
 |
The rolling chassis from Kyosho comes assembled as
a 94 mm wheel base car with the motor mounted behind
the rear axle of the car. Since the motor is mounted
between the rear axle, this configuration is know as
"RM" or Rear-Motor. At this wheelbase, any
Kyosho AutoScale that has a wheelbase of 94 mm will
fit on the chassis without any modification.
The Mini-Z rolling chassis also comes with an optional
98 mm wheel base motor mount (as you can see pictured
above.) The stock 98 mm motor mount has the motor mounted
in front of the rear axle. This is known as a Mid-Motor
car, or "MM". At this wheelbase, any Kyosho
AutoScale that has a wheelbase of 98 mm will fit on
the chassis without any modification.
In this case, the body we are using is an Aston Martin
DBR9. The Aston Martin is a 98 mm wheel base car, so
in order to fit it on our MR-02 chassis, we are going
to swap out the rear motor mount to the mid motor mount. |
|
Start by removing the screw that attaches the top
shock to the rear motor mount and the 2 screws that
connect the motor leads to the electronic board on the
chassis.
|
 |
Flip the car over and remove the 2 screws that attach
the rear suspension to the main chassis. Once these
are removed, the whole rear en can be detached.
|
 |
Once you have removed the entire rear end, you must
remove the rear differential from the old motor mount.
First remove the left rear tire from your car. |
|
Once you remove the rear left wheel you can pull
the differential out to the right of the car. After
you pull out the differential, unclip the motor holder
to pull the motor out of the mount as well. |
 |
This is an expanded view of where all the parts you
have removed belong in the car.
|
 |
The first thing we need to do with the new motor
mount is install the bearings that came with our stage
1 Upgrade package. You will use two of the three 3x6x2.5
bearings supplied, one on each side of the motor mount.
|
|
Now we can slide the differential into the motor
mount and slide the left tire anchor into place.
|
 |
For the next couple of steps we need to bust out
the beautiful new Aston Martin DBR9 body. Open the package,
take the cover off and pull the wheels off of the display
chassis. Don't be afraid, the nuts holding them in place
are just pressed on.
|
 |
Above we have the Aston Martin wheels almost ready
to install on our rolling chassis.
|
 |
Again we have an expanded view of the of the rear
end. This time we have the aston wheels and bearings.
The third 3x6x2.5mm bearing goes on the outside of the
right-rear tire of the car. On the left, we install
the wheel just as it was when it came from the factory. |
 |
This is a pretty much finished rear mount, ready
to instal to the main chassis.
|
 |
Next we will attach the H-plate (also known as t-plate)
on the car. The upgrade package comes with your choice
of a Soft, Medium and Hard plate. In this case we will
use the medium one.
|
 |
First, attach the H-plate to the motor mount. |
 |
In order to run a 98mm wheel base it is necessary
that the h-plate holder and the h-plate are installed
on the 2 forward-most holes of the main chassis.
|
 |
H-plate is now installed! If you want a little more
rear traction, use the softer bar, if you want a little
more rear slide use the hard plate. |
 |
In order to install the motor on the mount, we need
to press the mounting plates onto the motor. We are
installing a 7 tooth pinion on the car, therefore we
select the 7T plates.
|
 |
| This is a motor that is ready to be installed on its
mount. |
 |
As long as the plates are installed correctly, the
motor should slide right into place and the gears should
mesh properly.
|
 |
| The motor clip secures the motor in place. We do need
to install the shock mount before we clip it in though.
To do so we need one of the counter screws supplied with
the car, the motor clip and the shock mount. |
 |
This is a ready-to-install motor clip.
|
 |
| Now you can go ahead and clip you motor
in place. |
 |
| In order to provide the rear end a little bit of dampening,
we are going to work on the top shock just a bit. By removing
one of the mount screws you can pull the shock right off.
|
 |
| Our means of dampening will be Kyosho's 15000 wt Diff
Gear Grease. This grease is very consistent and provides
excellent dampening on Mini-Z's. (It is rumored Cristian
puts it on toast!) |
 |
If you stick a phillips head screw driver into the
top of the shock, you can unscrew the bottom part of
the shock and take it apart. Once dissasembled dip the
shock shaft into the grease and re-assemble it once
lubed.
|
 |
 |
We can now re-install the top shock. A little
bit of grease goes a long way in improving the
performance of the car.
|
|

|
Time to route the motor wires and screw the terminals
back to the electronic board. It is important that you
do this correctly and that your wires look like they
look above or at least that you are certain that they
are not binding.
|
 |
We now move to the front end of the car. The first
thing we will do is remove the front wheels. |
|
The Stage 1 Package comes with some stainless steel
king pins. These are much smoother than the stock steel
ones and should make your front suspension work much
better as well.
|
 |
To install the king pins, we must first remove the
old ones. To do this simply remove the plastic "C"
clip that secures them.
|
 |
Assemble the front end in the same way that it came
from the factory. This time, use the stainless steel
king pins. |
|
| You should still have 4 bearings left. These belong
in the front wheels. The Avid bearings you purchased in
the Stage 1 kit have 1 side that has a shield and one
side that does not. The side that does not have a shield
always go to the inside of the wheel. |
 |
Slide the wheels over the front axles and install
the wheelnuts. Be patient, we are almost done...
|
 |
The body clip is next on our list. Remove it from
the dummy AutoScale chassis and install it with the
same two screws on your MR-02 chassis.
|
|
Make sure that your body clip screws are tightened
all the way. A loose clip is more prone to breaking
and stripping the chassis screw holes.
|
 |
Now remove the AutoScale tires from your wheels.
These tires are so hard I think the only thing they
might be good for is drifting.
|
 |
We still have tires left to install. Funny that this
is the last thing we do in this article, because if
you were to do on single upgrade, this would be the
one to make the biggest difference.
|
 |
To install the tires, the easiest way to do so is
with double sided "tire" tape. The one pictured
above is made by PN Racing. |
 |
Use some of the wide tape on the rear wheels. Go
around the wheel 1 full circumference making sure that
the tape sticks evenly and staight.
|
 |
Cut the tape at the seams of where the tape begins
to overlap with an Xacto knife. This method is the easiest
to make sure that the tape is on every little bit of
wheel.
|
 |
Do the same in the front of the car. |
 |
If you heat of the tape a little bit, it seems to
stick better. This must soften the adhesive temporarily
allowing it to penetrate whatever it is gluing together
better. Don't scorch the wheel though, all that is needed
is to heat up the glue a bit.
|
 |
Peel the adhesive protective film in order to expose
the glue of the tape. |
 |
Mount the tire on the wheel and work it on evenly
with your fingers. Make sure that the tire looks even,
that it is centered and not "lumped up" on
the wheel of the car.
|
 |
| Now do the front wheels. Repeat the same procedure as
you did with the rear wheels. |
 |
Again, work the front tires so that they are even
and balanced on the wheel.
|
 |
| Car is ready! Pop some batteries in the chassis and
transmitter, |
 |
prepare to install the body...
|
 |
| ...and go race!!! |
Written by
Cristian Tabush
|