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Home > Articles > Multi Option Rear Suspension Install
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How To: Install Your
Multi-Option Rear Suspension: TRI SHOCK
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The Multi-Option Rear Suspension is the most
versatile Rear Suspension available in the market
today. When we designed this piece, we wanted
to cover as many areas as were possible, all in
one affordable package. The Multi-Option Rear
Suspension comes with all the necessary parts
to not only run your car as a disk damper car,
or as a Tri-Shock car but also to be able to fine
tune it to conditions of the track you race on.
It comes with multiple springs to tune your car
wether set-up as a disk damper car, or a tri-shock
car.
The instructions below indicate how to prepare
and install your Multi-Option Rear Suspension
in Tri-Shock Mode, in order to ensure maximum
performance of your car.
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First we will start with the Atomic SAS Shocks.
We could have made these a direct bolt-on, but
we did not. Why? Well it is to ensure proper
clearance with Pan Car Bodies. If you are not
planning on ever using pan car bodies, jus finding
longer screws would suffice to make your shocks
bolt-on directly. Since we want this system
to be versatile, we are showing you how to modify
the shocks to get maximum clearance. |
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The first step is to install the spring collar. Once
you have done this, set them aside. If you want it to
thread a little easier, you may use a little diff grease
on the threads.
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A regular shock pivot looks like the
one above. One long side, one short side. We will be
modifying the long side. The short side will always
face the bottom, so that we don't have to worry about
perfectly straight cuts.
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First cut 2 pieces to look like above.
Leave about 1-1.5mm of flange on the long side. Notice
the long side is now the shorter side. The uncut side
is in the back.
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The other 2 pivots need to be cut even
shorter. Leaving about a 0.5mm flange is about enough.
The uncut side is closer to the front.
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Here is a picture of 2 modified shock
pivots, and 1 uncut one.
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The pivot that we cut less (left the
bigger flange) goes on the female side of the shock.
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Install the pivot by pushing it in through
the eyelet, until it snaps in place.
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The shorter pivot goes on the male
side. |
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Once again, push the pivot through the
eyelet.
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In order to ensure the most smooth
operation, you might need to sand the piston on the
male side with some sandpaper. We start with 600 to
get the piston to slide easily and then use some 1000
to make the action extra smooth. |
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Once you have gotten your shock to
slide smoothly in and out, apply some friction grease.
The best stuff here really is the Kyosho grease. DON'T
SKIMP OUT!!! This is REALLY worth the money and will
last you forever. Our standard set-up, that we pretty
much use everywhere is #5000 to start. If the track
is really low grip, we might use #3000, and if it has
a lot of grip we might use some CST 7000-10000 wt grease
or oil. |
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Once you have lubed the shock, make a tiny
breathing hole to prevent the shock from locking
up. Use a really sharp knife or a small drill
bit. If you use a knife, be very carefull not
to slice the shock! |
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Once you have done both shocks, set them aside. Above
is what it should look like.
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Next, we are going into the actuall
installation of the plates. Above you see the 2 Carbon
pieces and the bag with the hardware and all the suspension
parts. We will only use the parts for the Tri-Shock.
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First thing to do is to install the
screw for the top shock. Take the longest screw in the
hardware bag and one of the lock nuts.
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We installed the screw on the most furthest
forward hole one the plate. This is to use the Kyosho
Oil shock which is our favorite. In this position you
must unscrew the shock bottom on the oil shock about
0.8mm to get a total shock length of 40mm. This gives
you our "standard" pod droop setting. More
pod droop gives you more grip on power, but we feel
like too much makes the car impossible to rotate.
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Slide the carbon plate on top of the
chassis mount holes. In this case, we are building it
in 94mm configuration.
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Slide down the available washers over
the mounting posts. We chose to use washers underneath
because they clamp down better in combination with the
aluminum cups that we slide on top. They also are able
to slide underneath the damper plate in case you want
to raise the mechanism higher. While we don't recommend
this all the time, but it is necessary to get proper
clearance when the car is built with a disk damper in
94mm setting.
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Push down the first aluminum post cup
into place.
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Now the second one. |
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Another positive is that the washers
are able to keep the plastic mounting post from expanding
and stripping. So clamp down those screws REALLY SNUG!!!
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We are getting really close now, just
be patient!!! |
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First of all, notice this is an upside-down picture!!!
To Install the shocks, use the counter sunk screws
and go in from the bottom. Make sure you Install the
female side inboard and the un-cut side is towards
the bottom.
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Use the M2 nuts to snug down your shocks,
don't do it too much or you'll make them bind.
(In this picture we are using the Medium
springs. Use the springs to adjust the reaction time
and rotation of your car. The stiffer the spring, the
quicker the car will change directions and rotate. Don't
use pre-load for anything else than to set how much
the shocks return the pod to center. When running on
a road-course, you want both shocks to have equal amount
of pre-load so that the car turns the same left to right.
To check this, make sure that when the suspension is
pushed to either side, it always returns to center.
If it returns and it is slightly to the right, pre-load
the right shock a bit, if it does it to the left, adust
the left. TAKE NOTE THAT THIS APPLIES ONLY WHEN THE
SUSPENSION IS COMPLETELY INSTALLED ON THE MOTOR MOUNT
AND ON THE CAR!!!)
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Now we can install the male side of
the shock on the Carbon brace. The un-cut side of the
pivot is facing the bottom, the counter-sunk screw goes
in from the top. |
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Lastly, install the Carbon brace on your motor mount
using the shorter 2mm machined screws button head
screws. The longer one is used to install the top-shock,
as well as the remaining lock nut.
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Written by Cristian
Tabush |
